Last night, some of us went here. It was my first time. Unsurprisingly, everyone else had been here at least several times. I’d been inside before, to see the decorating – I was shown by the guy who decorated the stage area and where we sat last night. I was told that the food was average, but I didn’t have any complaints. I don’t know how anyone could screw up kibbe sharjia and kabab halabi, though. At least not here. In the States, sure.

They had entertainment last night. Sadly, not the Darweesh (which I’ve been told only gig during Ramadan – sadly, I was told that afterwards). Last night, it was just some guy singing with his backup band of one. We didn’t stay too long because someone fell ill, but it was still enjoyable. Considering that that may well have been my last restaurant experience in Aleppo (I don’t count Arabica or al-Attar), it was happiness.

So, I’m outta here in a few days and wondering whether or not I should keep this blog in the off chance I might actually post something else after I leave, or if I should put it out of its misery and do a Dr. Kevorkian.

I can’t imagine I’ll be too interested in keeping this going if I’m shifting my focus back to Russia or living back in Balad al-Kafeer. But I pride myself on being unpredictable, so who knows what will happen.

At the very least, I’d like to have another post or two discussing other observations about life here as an infidel. Not that I felt particularly infidelish these last nine months, but you know….

OK. Finally got around to getting a new pic. This time I even used a flash so that you can see it better.

Furqan Wheel

I saw this the other night in Furqan on my way home. It’s near the mosque, which needs to be photographed as well, but I feel self-conscious. If I can get a better pic, I’ll replace this one which is “eh”.

I think I speak for all of us here in the Middle East when I say how excited I am that MBC Action is going to be showing the Indiana Jones trilogy, but enough with the damn commercials already!

So, this weekend, all eyes are on Syria. Down in Damascus, they’re having another Arab League Summit. This is noteworthy partly because it comes on the heels of yet another UN report being released which says that Rafiq Hariri was assassinated. Welcome to 2005, 2006, and 2007. Until they name names, I won’t bother TiVoing any more of their press releases. Anyway, the Arab League summit is also noteworthy because of the rumors that Israel was going to attend for the first time ever. Of course, Olmert and the Israeli delegation passed on the opportunity because they weren’t actually invited and they didn’t want to come anyway.

But don’t swell Damascus’s ego. We got our own big news up here in Aleppo too. Why just this morning in Mohafezah, a stray cat jumped out of a garbage bin and almost got hit by a taxi.

Far be it from me to do Zagat’s job for them, but as I suspect they can’t be bothered to tour Aleppo, I have no choice. I should also point out that I don’t have extensive experience in this. I’ve only been to a small handful of eateries, but I know enough to pontificate about which ones I would recommend. I just want to caution that if you take this post seriously, please be aware that there are other places that probably should have been mentioned. Anyway, let’s get this started.

If you’re wondering if there’s a way to dine somewhere in Aleppo where you can relive your prom experience, fear not. This city has it covered by way of Laguna. I’m not sure where it is, though, since I only pay attention to locations when I drive (which these days is never), but ask around. It’s popular. By day, Laguna is used as a swimming pool (smack dab in the center of the restaurant), but by night, it’s the restaurant. It has a stage with a house band performing nightly (I’m guessing), and you can reserve it for parties. Quite possibly the strangest restaurant I’ve eaten at here because of that “prom” feeling.

If you’re in the mood for generally crappy service, try the Pullman. Great food, but inattentive waiters (generally, not always). Now, when I say “the Pullman,” that’s the hotel’s main restaurant – down the corridor from the less impressive La Rose Cafe (distinguishable only for its decent hubble bubble). At the Pullman, I always order kebab halabi and almost always get my food a good 10-15 minutes after every one else who gets something that doesn’t require as much cooking. If you’re not famished, though, it’s worth the wait.

**Actually, I need to modify my disgust for La Rose. I don’t like it and never will, but to be fair,their food is good, too. I think it’s the ambience or the constant crowds (not good if you’re claustrophobic) that annoy me.

If you’re in the mood for “old world charm,” for my money, you can’t beat Sissi House/Beit Sissi which is somewhere near the city center. It’s a renovated old house (go figure) and has more charm than you can imagine. Some people aren’t as amused by that and feel that it’s overdone, but I like it. If it’s too much, though, you can always go downstairs into the Bat Cave and enjoy a drink. Sadly, neither hubble nor bubble is present downstairs, but in the center of the room is space for some Eastern ruckus. When I went, we had to make our own ruckus, but we were half plastered, so it was still enjoyable.

For a more casual dining experience, I favor Arabica (either one, although the one across from the Citadel obviously has a great view). Arabica is the place to go to rest your tootsies after some touristing and to meet up with friends for a snack (like the incredibly delicious foul/fool) and, of course, the inevitable hubble bubble. Actually, the best time to go to the Citadel’s Arabica is around midnight (during the summer). The weather is great and it’s not terribly crowded. Most enjoyable.

If you happen to be in Mohafezah and are looking for a good shawarma shack with great sandwiches, for my money you can’t beat Panino’s, which is luckily just a hop, skip and a jump from where I live. I go there every other day and only order one of three things (the only things I’ve tried from there), but it’s heaven every time. Just make sure you ask for khremtoum so that the sandwiches aren’t too dry. And the adventurous may even want to try out the brains they have (it’s from some kind of small animal).

I’ve only just scratched the surface of the restaurant scene here, but this post is bigger than anything else I’ve written on this blog, so I quit now. Sahtayn.

For anyone who knows any better, there is a world of difference between Damascus and Aleppo. The former is more cosmopolitan while the latter just is. This is especially noticeable with chains (of restaurants and clothing stores, although Aleppo does have a Benetton). Anyway, I always figured that it was because Damascus is the capital city, so it gets the good stuff first and with Syria generally being a poor country, that means everyone else – even the financial hub that is Aleppo – must suffer.

A few days ago, I overheard a different explanation. It may not be true, but it certainly is interesting.

The story goes that 25/26 years ago, as Hafez al-Assad was visiting Aleppo, there was either an assassination attempt or talk of one. Shortly after that, he opened up a can of Whoop-teez on the Muslim Brotherhood in Hama, who apparently had connections in Aleppo. Ever since then, this fair city has fallen out of favor with the government. This is why, supposedly, a building that can get erected in six months down in Sham would take two years or so up here.

Supposedly, Dr. Bashar’s wife is from somewhere near here, so it’s slowly starting to change, but aside from that aforementioned Benetton store, you wouldn’t know it. For instance, if you need to get your “jajj” on, you still have to go to Damascus for “Kentucky Chicken,” although I would do so at your own risk. Supposedly it’s crap.

Time for another list, but this one’s even more useless than the others….

5. Dogs. You don’t see too many here in Aleppo, but it sure is nice when you do.

4. Camels. Supposedly they have camels-a-plenty in Palmyra, but I have yet to verify.

3. Cats. The funniest thing about the stray cats is that they’re all very dirty. They look like they’re covered in inches of dust. American cats would’ve cleaned themselves before they got that bad, but it’s like these cats just gave up on life. Maybe things would be better for them if they had Kitty Prozac.

1. This one’s a tie between the lion and giraffe, but you won’t get me telling that story just yet.

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